Here's what you need:
4" x 6" scraps of:
Fabric - I've used quilting cotton, cotton canvas, bark cloth. 
Batting - low loft, lightweight (poly is easy to hand stitch).
Fusible interfacing - you can use smaller scraps to get to 4 x 6
Suggest Pellon SF101 or slightly heavier. 
Post Card Back - 100# card stock - available at craft stores
I created a post card back on computer so I could print them.  
However, You can easily hand draw or stamp address lines, etc. 

Glue stick
Heavy book 
Sewing machine with zig zag stitch

Pin fabric to batting.
Quilt postcard front using running stitch in and around motifs. Use scrap thread in different weights. Whatever you like. If you want to get fancier, embroider or applique. You can also machine quilt. 
Press flat.

Smear glue on back of card stock using a light hand.
Line up and glue card back to interfacing (heavy glue equals a warped card).
Use a pressing cloth, lightly press and set glue with iron on wool/silk setting.
Place your card under a heavy book for 10 min. or longer.

Trim excess fabric and or card stock to 4" x 6".
Use your sewing machine and zig zag stitch around entire edge of card. You don't have to go all the way to satin stitch as card stock won't hold up.

Address, write a greeting, stamp and mail. These go through the regular mail easily they just take a few more days to arrive.

New pattern for you to try. Make a mini quilt using the Ocean Wave quilt block. The top is made using two contrasting fat quarters. You need one additional for backing.

I made the samples for this in different color ways and used a variety of finishing techniques (scroll down).

Fun as a wall quilt, table centerpiece, pillow...

Click on the pattern to buy.

Leaf line drawing included in the pattern is used for sample above. First I traced the shape onto freezer paper and cut it out. Then placed and pressed the freezer paper leaf on to the quilt top and stitched around it using embroidery thread and perle cotton. The stitching shows up well against light center and corners.

Backing fabric, flannel lining instead of batting and the envelope method make a nice flat finish for the table.

 I opted to make the center dark on this one and stitch just the turtle in the center. Finished using a low loft batting, machine quilting, and binding.

Birds of Paradise are traced on to the center of the quilt top. Depending on what color center you choose, you could use a light box to trace the design or transfer paper is a good option for darker fabrics. I used a combination of embroidery, Sashiko, and perle cotton threads to shade and fill in the shapes. Applying a stabilizer to the back is recommended. If you don't, the close together running stitches can stretch and distort the block. I really enjoyed this type of stitching. Again for this one, no quilting. I just used flannel lining, backing and the envelope method to finish.

Broderie Perse flowers are appliqued onto the quilt top. The flowers are cut from scraps and hand appliqued to the top. I used the interfacing method to make the applique and hand quilted it using 12 wt. thread. Finished the edge with binding.

Mini quilts are a fun way to try new stitching methods and finishing techniques. I've made 7 different samples so far in different color ways and finishes. Tropical fabrics are a favorite obviously.  This could be made using any fabrics (your favorites) adding stitching and applique that suits your fancy.

Fussy cut the turtle backs, heads and legs for extra cuteness!

Use perle cotton or embroidery thread to add detail to blossom centers.

I use a Hera tool and a wave ruler to mark wavy lines for embroidery.

Quilt material requirements call for yardage and fat quarters. It can also be made using a charm pack for the half square triangles. However, you would need to adjust size of setting and corner triangles. You will end up with a smaller quilt.

Here's how these were made. Photo above is the completed rainbow edition of my bear paw baby quilts. They are finished envelope style so there is no binding. The quilting happens after all edges are finished including the dimensional bear heads and paws.

For the body of the quilt, I made four bear paw blocks with center sashing and border surround. Love these colorful wovens. I've wanted to use them for years now. Any fabrics in rainbow colors would be fun! Blue plaid flannel version of this quilt (scroll down for pics), has an additional small border just because I thought it needed it.

The bear heads and ears are made by sewing two fabric circles (RS) together and cutting a portion off so they can be turned right side out. I drew the paw shape. Cut 4 paw shapes for each bear. Sew around the edges leaving narrow side open. Turn and press.

For the heads and ears, make the ears first. Cut and sew around circles. Slice a small piece off of one side. Turn and press. Cut two circles for each bear head just like you do for the ears. Place ears in the seam allowance of the head circles leaving space between the ears :). Sew around entire circle. Cut a small portion off of the circle opposite the ears. Turn right side out and press.

Applique the eyes and noses.

Cut backing and batting the same size as your top. Now you're ready to assemble and quilt.

Center bear head approx. 3" from the corner point on quilt top. Bear head edges should reach quilt sides. Make sure you leave at least a seam allowance beyond the nose. Match up raw edges of paws on either side of the head so raw edges end up in seam allowance. At this point, I basted the heads and paws in place. Next step. Don't be scared but trim off the corner of the top (matching raw edges of bear head).  Repeat for all 4 corners.

Place the quilt top right side up on top of the batting (I spray basted top to batting). Place backing right side down on top of the quilt top. Match up edges and baste around entire quilt to avoid shifting. Leave a fist sized opening for turning. Sew around the edge. I used a 3/8" seam allowance on this step. Blunt corner edges, remove basting and turn right side out. Use a chop stick to push out corners and flatten seams. Press edges and sew around entire quilt closing the opening.

This is how the corners of the quilt look after the quilt sandwich is sewn together and turned. Bear heads and paws are freeeeee. Now you're ready to quilt. Make sure bear heads and paws remain free as you quilt This is small so easy enough to quilt on a home machine or by hand in any way you like.

These two were quilted on my longarm. Strips were added to quilt edges for loading. This helped keep the heads and paws free also.

Plaid quilt is slightly larger because a framing strip was added around the bear paw blocks. All flannel fabric including the back is oh so soft. Last step after quilting. Applique paws to quilt sides so it appears bears are peaking over the corners.

Had some fun piecing the back of this one too. Used up a lot of leftover flannel from the top. The star is from an out of print pattern called Baby Big Star by Linda Johnson. Pantograph is Diagonal Plaid by Urban Elementz.

Earlier this Spring, I got the urge to make something summery. Some small cottage/bungalows around Sequim caught my attention when we first moved to this area. I've thought for years they could make a fun wall quilt. Whadda ya know, this turned out to be the year to actually do something about it. The following shows part of the quilt progression. Scroll to the end to see pictures of the houses that inspired this.

Here's my starting point. Sketched out a Courthouse Square block with house in center and small diamonds pieced into the corners.

Auditioning different colors for strips surround the house.

Adding appliques for more color.

Outlining the bird applique with embroidery stem stitch.

Big stitch quilting texture in the house roof. I used a combination of big stitch and machine quilting. Most of the background around the house is a machine stitched honey comb pattern.

Completed this little top today, Valentines Day 2022. It was fun getting back to some hand stitching (just healing up from a finger injury). The top is approx. 25" x 26". So probably big enough to tuck into a car seat or stroller. The bear block is 9.5" square. It will be quilted using a light batting with flannel backing to finish. I decided to embroider Hula Bear this time and use fewer appliques. She's bright and sweet. The prints are mainly Trendtex fabrics from Hawaii.

I like making the appliques using sew in interfacing. The results are a flat applique with edges turned under. I learned this method from a tip in an old Quilter's Newsletter Magazine. I've used it when possible ever sense. Below are pictures of what that process looks like.

1 - Trace your shape on to light weight, sew in interfacing. Pin to the right side of applique fabric. You can see through it to position your applique.
2 - Thread needle with water soluble thread.
3 - Shorten stitch length to 1.5 or 1.6.
4 - Sew around your shape just outside the drawn line.
5 - Trim leaving a 1/8th to 1/4" seam allowance outside the line.
6 - Clip any curves if needed.
7 - Cut a slit in the interfacing only and turn the shape right side out. Use the straw and chopstick method to make this step easy.
8 - Use the chopstick or a bodkin to smooth the seams and press shape.
9 - Spray the back of the applique lightly with fabric sizing.
10 - Following instructions on the can, make sure sizing is absorbed in fabric.
11 - Turn the applique right side up and press moving iron back and forth until shape is dry.
12 - Lift interfacing away from the fabric and you have a nice flat applique shape with turned under edges. The interfacing lifts off because the water soluble thread melts away. Magical...

Above is the back of Hula Bear's skirt applique and the interfacing that came away when it was pressed. Nice smooth turned under edges.

Above is Hula Bear in progress. For me, not always, but a lot of times, applique prep this way is faster than using the starch and paper method or other. You still get a nice flat applique. Also, if you want more body to your applique, use regular thread in the needle and leave the interfacing in.

First fan or (half Dresden plate) made with a 15 degree ruler. The ruler is huge (Creative Grids non slip, 24") so you can cut just about any size fan blade that you want.  I liked the look of more narrow fan blades so there are 14 in these. Now what?

How about sewing a bunch of 2.5" squares together along with 2.5" border strips? Simple and looking good in these fabrics so far. It could be finished just like this.

However, we're incorporating the Dresden plate pattern here. So the half Dresden's were appliqued to a rectangle and sewn to each end for the finish. A pretty top for a fall table and or Thanksgiving. To me these particular half Dresden's suggest turkey feathers. :) I liked these fabrics so much I decided to make a full Dresden plate to use as a table center piece.

I used a photo of a young Japanese maple along side our driveway to create this tree.